Wendy Wheel - DIY How to make Flyer

Hello...

as promised, this is my frugal design for Wendy flyer...

What you need:

For the FLYER:
part #1) 1 pcs of 12 x 12 mm square dowel, 13.5 mm long
Choose one of part 2A or part 2B:
part #2A) 2 pcs of 8 mm diameter cylindrical dowel, 12 cm long, sand the edges, OR
part #2B) 2 pcs of 12 x 12 mm square dowel, 11 cm, sand the edges

part #3) 1 pcs of 8 mm diameter cylindrical dowel, 18.5 cm
part #4) Wood glue or super glue

Fig 1. Superglue

tools #5) Electric Drill
tools #6) Drill bits 7.9 mm
tools #7) Drill bits 1.6 mm (or as required for your hook)
part #8) 9 pcs Open or closed loop Hook screw

Fig 2. Screw eyes

tools #9) Sanding paper or sanding belt
tools #10) Saw, manual or electric
part #11) 8 mm plastic tubing (mine using clear vinyl), at least 5 cm long.

Fig 3. Vinyl Tubing

tools #12) box cutter
tools #13) Courage
tools #14) Zero carpentry skill, but willingness to try


How to make the Flyer:
a) attach the arms into part #1 (head board)
for 2A
Drill a hole at each edges of part #1 using 7.9 mm drill bit. I drilled it until almost 10 mm depth, I didn't drill it through the other side of the square wood. Ensure that the edge of the drill hole is not exceeding 5 mm from the edge (side) of the wood. Afterwards, I put the glue in the inside of the hole, and push in the flyer arms. I found that this method is less wobbly than the 2B, if I do not have extra reinforcement.
OR
for 2B
Glue 2B to each edges of part #1. To further reinforce, you can use nails/bolt (drill a hole before you push them in), or as what I used, big staples (I don't really recommend). Add more glue after stapling if needed.

b) Prepare the spine (part #3).
If you use 18.5 cm length dowel, sand one of the edge for around 1.5 cm length to reduce the size to fir 6 mm hole. You can make it longer, but the part at the head of the flyer (where it connects to orifice) should not exceed 1.5 cm. So if you have a longer spine, have the smaller edge sanded longer. Example, you have a 19 cm spine, it's best to have the sanded part 2 cm long. Longer spine doesn't mean that it will make it more secure. It will still slide if you don't secure it with rubber band/lock nut (please refer to other notes at the end of this post).

Fig 4. Sanded Spine

c) Attach the spine (part #3) into head board (part #1)
drill through the middle of the flyer headboard (part #1) using 7.9 mm drill bit. Push in the 8 mm dowel into the hole. Please be reminded that the dowel pushed through the flyer headboard should not exceed 1.5 cm.

d) Attach the hook
Drill holes using 1.6 mm drill bits on top of the headboard (part #1), aligned with the orifice. Drill 2 other at each edge of the headboard, and another 8 evenly distributed on the flyer arms. See my simplified plan below.

Fig 5. Plan for Prototype 1 (using part #2B)

Fig 6. Plan for Prototype 2 (using part 2A)

Here's some photos of the progress:

Fig 7. Prototype 1. Note that the orifice was not using the hose tubing. I changed the design at the end (refer to my story post). 

Fig 8. Prototype 1, please note that the arms were too long, so I cut it. please follow the design plan above. If the arm exceed the bobbin length, the drive band will be caught up by the arms. 

 e) Make the orifice.
Orifice is made simply using the 8 mm plastic hose. Mark 1.5 cm from one edge, and then using a box cutter, carefully carve a little hole on it. Attach to the flyer spine (part #3). I know it sounds wonky, but it is suprisingly working just fine.

Fig 9. Installed tubing orifice. Note that I haven't added hook in the middle of the head bar.
Mark the hole using box cutter and carefully carve the hole. 

and THAT's IT!


How to make WHORL?
As this is a customized flyer, I have to make customized whorl too. I borrow the idea from dodec spinning wheel.
For this one, I used:
1) Pine dressed 42 x 19 mm bar, I cut it square so the sizing became 42 x 42 x 19 mm
2) Drill bit 7.9 mm
3) Sanding belt

How to make it:
a) Sand from the middle part outwardly using sanding belt, do on all 4 sides so that you created a ridge in the middle of the thick part of the block
b) Drill a hole right in the middle of the block (42 x 42 mm) side.
c) Put into flyer (screw in. I know it doesn't have any screw bit, but as it's 7.9 mm hole pushed into 8 mm rod, the whorl is slightly difficult to be moved.

Fig 10. Dodec style whorl

 DONE!

Fig 11. Prototype 2 working. Notice that the bottom left (next to orifice) has the lock secured with a rubber band. 

Now let's see the video of the flyer at work.

Prototype 1 (Square arm)

 Prototype 2 (cylindrical arm)

Other notes:
>> Remember that after I changed into tubing (previous post) there's nothing to harbor the flyer to stay in place? I used hair band on the back of the flyer so it won't slip through the 6 mm frame hole.
If you want it to be fancy, you can consider using lock nut (nut with silicon rubber so it wont be easily moved through rotating wheel movement).

Fig 12. Hair band at the other end of the flyer.

How much do I spent?
Note that I bought all of the things from Bunnings (all in AUD)
- 8 mm Tasmanian Oak dowel (2.4 m) = $4.41
- 12 mm x 12 mm Tasmanian Oak Dar (1.2 m) = $4.94
- 42 x 19 mm Pine Dressed (1.2 m) = $3.15
- Screw Eye Hook Everhang 15 mm (25 pcs/pack) = $2.80
- Super glue = $2
- 8 mm Hose Clear Vynil (5 m) = $12.5

Total spending: $29.8
All tools are borrowed from campus or friends.

Of course, this is without trial and error cost :p. But it's still less than $100, I think.

 Hope this helps. If you have any question and if I can help, just let me know and comment below. Or get in touch with me in facebook if you are my friend.